This FAQ Page is applicable to the following ESCs: Phoenix ICE 2 40 HV, Phoenix ICE 2 60 HV, Phoenix ICE 2 80 HV, Phoenix ICE 2 120 HV, Phoenix ICE 2 160 HV and Phoenix ICE 2 160 Lite HV.
1. I heard there is a recall on the Phoenix ICE HV ESCs, how do I know if my ESC is part of the recall?
We had a recall on the Phoenix ICE HV ESCs in August 2011. The Phoenix ICE 2 HV ESCs were the replacement to the ICE HVs and are safe to use. If you think you have a recalled Phoenix ICE HV please visit our Service Advisory page.
2. When I plug my Phoenix ICE 2 HV controller into the Castle Link it does not connect. Why?
The ICE 2 HV controllers are opto-isolated which stops all current between your receiver and the speed controller during normal operation. Because of this, power between your computer and the controller is also interrupted. As such, you must supply power to the processor from an outside source. The processor on the ICE 2 HV controllers require at least 16 volts (equivalent to a charged 4s LiPo or 12 cell NiMH pack) to boot up. Be sure to plug the controller into the link first, and then plug the pack in. It will not work the other way around.
3. I know I have to plug a battery pack into my Phoenix ICE 2 HV controller to get it to connect to Castle Link, but it’s still not working. Why?
First, ensure that the pack you are plugging in is higher than 16 volts, and that your “USB connection status” box in the lower left hand corner of the Castle Link screen is green*. Plug the controller into the Castle Link, and then plug your battery pack into the controller. It will not work the other way around (battery then link). If it is still not connecting, try removing the green PCB (printed circuit board) at the end of the Castle Link, plug it back in, and repeat the process. If none of this works please contact tech support.
*If your “USB connection status” box is red, please see the driver installation question on the Castle Link FAQ page to resolve it.
4. When I plug in my high voltage battery pack (4s-12s LiPo, 12-20 NiMH) into my Phoenix ICE 2 HV controller there is a large spark. Why?
The spark is your friend. If ever you plug your pack into your controller and you don’t see the spark, contact tech support by sending them a message. or call 913-390-6939 and send the controller in for repair. Your capacitors will need to be changed. NEVER fly if you do not see the spark, especially with high voltage applications! The higher the voltage, the bigger the spark should be. Remember, the spark is your friend!!!
5. Will my Phoenix ICE 2 HV work with A123 batteries?
Yes, it will. However, A123 batteries require a 2v/cell cutoff. For some battery configurations you will need to have the Castle Link USB Programmer in order to set the proper cutoff voltage. For example, an 8 cell A123 needs to be cut off at 16v. With the Castle Link select “custom” under cutoff voltage, set it for 16v, and then hit "update" in the bottom right hand corner of the Castle Link screen.
6. What is the difference between auto-calibrating throttle and fixed endpoints?
With auto-calibrating throttle you must arm the ESC, run the motor up to full throttle for 3 seconds, and then bring the throttle back down to the off position to calibrate the ESC to your transmitter. With fixed endpoints the ESC dictates what points will be used for full throttle and zero throttle. You calibrate the transmitter to the full throttle and zero throttle points the ESC has designated. With this method you do not have to run the motor up to full throttle prior to a flight. You simply plug in the battery and fly. This is handy with high powered aircraft, 3D planes, jets, or if you simply do not wish to go through the auto calibration process. See question #6 for instructions on how to set your transmitter for fixed endpoints.
7. How do I set up fixed endpoints on my transmitter?
Go to the endpoint adjustment screen on your transmitter (EPA/Travel/ATV on the various radios). Move the throttle stick to the top position and bring the endpoint percentage down to 30%. Next, move the throttle stick to the bottom position and bring the endpoint percentage down to 30%. Put the throttle stick back to the full throttle position. If you have a separate receiver battery, turn it on. If not, plug your battery pack into the ESC. After the initialization tones, start dialing the endpoint percentage from 30% out towards 100% (and sometimes past) until you hear a single tone. Then increase the percentage two more points to ensure you will always achieve full throttle. Next, bring the throttle stick to the bottom position. You will hear another single tone. Increase the endpoint percentage from 30% out towards 100% (and sometimes past) until you hear a double tone (the arming tone). Then increase the percentage two more points to ensure you will always achieve zero throttle. USE CAUTION AS THE ESC WILL BE ARMED AT THIS POINT! That’s it! You should have throttle response as soon as the stick is moved up.
7. Should I run a brake?
This is mainly dependent on the type of aircraft you are flying. NEVER use a brake if you are flying an EDF. Most people choose not to use the brake when they are flying 3D or aerobatic aircraft. This way the prop will freewheel when coming in for landing and when in throttle off situations during maneuvers. For all other types of aircraft it is up to the user.
8. What is the difference between hard and soft brake?
Hard brake will engage at 100% strength. Soft brake will engage the brake at 50% strength.
9. I’ve heard there are beep codes that will tell me why my motor shut down. What are they?
There are 6 beep codes in the latest firmware versions of the Phoenix software to help you determine what issue you may be having with your setup. They are as follows:
1 beep – Start Failure (The motor was jammed or locked)
2 beeps – Low Voltage Cutoff (Your batteries are likely discharged. Check that the batteries are fully charged and that your ESC detects the proper number of cells at power up)
3 beeps – Over Current (Current draw exceeded the safe capacity of the controller)
4 beeps – Prop Strike Detected (Your motor stopped spinning freely. Check for proper operation of motor)
5 beeps – Poor Radio Signal (Signal from your receiver is corrupt or non-existent, check transmitter and receiver)
6 beeps – Over Temperature
10. What types of motors will the Phoenix ICE2 HV ESCs run?
Castle Creations makes every effort to ensure that our speed controllers will run every sensorless brushless motor on the market.
11. What size bullet connectors should I use between my motor and ESC?
This is dependent entirely on the amperage level of the setup. We offer bullet connectors ranging from 4mm (60 amps) up to 8mm (300 amps). You can find our bullet connectors here along with other Castle accessories.
12. What battery connector should I use with my Phoenix ICE2 HV ESC?
That is entirely up to you. Make sure that the battery connector is rated for the FULL amperage of the speed controller.
13. What is the recommended maximum operating temperature of the Phoenix ICE2 HV speed controllers?
We recommend a maximum of 180° F/82° C. The over-temperature error code will start at 220°F/104° C. It will thermally shut down at 250° F/121° C.
14. Can I lengthen the wires on the motor or battery side of the speed controller?
Yes. You can lengthen the wires on the motor side of the speed controller and the battery side, but caution must be taken in both instances. If you do not HAVE to lengthen the wires, DO NOT DO IT.
On the motor side you must ensure that you use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. The longer the extension the greater the chances of having a motor operation issue (trouble starting, etc). Obviously you will want to thoroughly check motor operation prior to flight.
On the battery side you will want to use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. We include 7” (17.8cm) of wire on the battery side of our controllers. Most LiPo battery packs will have approximately 5” (12.7cm) on them. Anything over this combined 12” (30.5cm) you will need to add extra capacitors to smooth out the ripple that will be generated as a result of the extensions. A good rule of thumb is one capacitor for every 4-6” (10-15cm) of wire you add to the system. Remember that you must count any y or series harnesses to this as well. You want to place the capacitor(s) as close to the point where the battery wires solder to the ESC as possible. We sell a capacitor bank called the CC Cap Pack that works very well in these situations.
Of course you can also purchase individual aluminum electrolytic low ESR capacitors and solder them in to the battery input leads if you wish. Use the same brand (Rubycon), and make sure that the voltage rating is the same as what the controller uses. Use the same microfarad rating the controller uses or a little more (up to 1000µF). Do not use higher microfarad (µF) rated capacitors as they cannot fill and dump quickly enough for our purposes.
Of course you can also purchase individual aluminum electrolytic low ESR capacitors and solder them in to the battery input leads if you wish. Use the same brand (Rubycon), and make sure that the voltage rating is the same as what the controller uses. Use the same microfarad rating the controller uses or a little more (up to 1000µF). Do not use higher microfarad (µF) rated capacitors as they cannot fill and dump quickly enough for our purposes.
15. My Phoenix ICE2 HV controller is not functioning anymore and I know it needs replacement. What can I do?
Castle Creations has a trade in policy in situations like this. We will trade you out for the flat rate repair fee of the new controller. You can visit our Repair Center for details on how to send in your ESC for warranty or non-warranty replacement.
16. When I plug in my battery pack the ESC goes through the startup tones, I bring my throttle stick to the bottom position, but all it does is flash red at me. What’s up?
First, make sure you are using a receiver battery or separate BEC to power the receiver. If you are getting servo control, check the wires going from the speed controller to the receiver. Make sure that all three receiver wires are plugged in (orange, red, and brown). Since the Phoenix ICE HV is a high voltage controller it does not have a BEC so you do NOT need to remove the red wire. Removing this wire will render the controller inoperable. If you are not getting servo control check your receiver, and the device you are using to power the receiver. Also, make sure you have the speed controller plugged into the receiver with the proper polarity and in the proper channel. Next, go into your transmitter’s endpoint adjustment function (EPA, Travel, ATV) and increase the low side from 100% out towards 120% or more until the controller arms. If you are still having difficulty give our tech support line a call at 913-390-6939 with all of your equipment in front of you and we’ll troubleshoot the issue with you over the phone.
17. I’ve heard I have to reverse the throttle channel on Futaba transmitters. Is that true?
Yes, that is true. You must reverse the throttle channel with all Futaba transmitters when using any electronic speed controller in order for it to function properly.
18. What PWM rate should I set my ESC for with “X” motor?
This is based entirely on the motor. Nearly all inrunner motors will use 12KHz. Scorpion outrunners operate best at 8KHz on our software. All other outrunners can use either 12KHz or outrunner motor. Check power output and motor temperature using both to determine which is best for your motor. If you are still unsure or just want to double check, give our tech support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message.
19. When I shut off my throttle the prop is still spinning very slowly. Why?
This can happen if you use your throttle trim during the arming process, and during the speed controller’s auto-calibration process. It can confuse the speed controller as the point it originally thought was zero throttle has now changed. To remedy the issue, leave the throttle trim at neutral (center position), arm the speed controller, calibrate it, and then fly. There is no need to use the trim to “zero” the controller.
20. When I turn on my speed controller all it does is constantly beep. What is wrong?
That is the error signal that the speed controller is not getting a valid throttle signal from the receiver. Check that the speed controller is plugged into the proper channel, that it is plugged into the throttle channel with the proper orientation (orange is signal, red is positive, brown is negative), and that your other channels are functioning properly. If your servos are functioning, you can try another receiver and see if it works properly after that. If you do not have another receiver you can try plugging the ESC into one of the other channels and see if it will function but TAKE THE PROP OFF FIRST as these other channels are spring loaded on the transmitter. If it functions in one of the other channels there is something wrong with the throttle channel on your receiver most likely.
21. I’ve broken the case on my Phoenix ICE ESC, do you sell replacements?
Yes. We offer replacement plastic cases for the Phoenix ICE ESCs. You can purchase them through our website or contact our sales department at sales@castlecreations.com or give them a call at 913-390-6939 option #3.
22. My speed controller beeps approximately every 15-20 seconds. What is that?
That is a feature we added called the “Power On Warning Beep”. It lets you know that your battery pack is still plugged in whenever the speed controller is seeing zero throttle or no throttle from the transmitter at all. This is a safety feature implemented due to the advent of LiPo technology. You can disable it if you would like using the Castle Link software, but it is recommended that it be kept enabled.