This FAQ Page is applicable to the following ESC: Sidewinder 8th
 

1.   What is the difference between the Sidewinder 8^th and the Mamba Monsters?
The Sidewinder 8^th has a lower amperage rating compared to the Mamba Monster series ESCs. As such the Mamba Monster can run in heavier vehicles and run more aggressive gearing for higher speeds. The Sidewinder 8^th should not be used in vehicles weighing more than 10 lbs and only with stock gearing. The BEC's output voltage on the Sidewinder 8th The 2200kv motor paired with the Sidewinder 8^th is the same motor as the 2200kv paired with the Mamba Monsters; the only difference is the version sold with the Sidewinder 8^th is smooth and the Monster version has small cooling ribs.

2.   What do the flashing LEDs mean?
The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.
 
If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input then:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
• Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off (battery)
• Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
• Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
• Yellow LED flashing - should not happen. May indicate problem with ESC or radio.
• Yellow LED is solid – ESC is armed and ready to drive.
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver

 If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = over temperature
• Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off (battery)
• Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
• Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver
• Solid Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal. If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
• Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating. Battery voltage mat be below cut-off voltage.
• Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full reverse (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
• Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
• Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
• Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed. While calibrating it means the ESC is seeing zero throttle and your radio is not sending out the proper signal.
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.

3.   I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Sidewinder 8th system. What are the best batteries to use?
The best LiPo packs on the market right now that we've tested thoroughly are the NeuEnergy 5000 30C, FlightPower Eon 5000 30C, Thunder Power 5000 40C, Thunder Power 5200 50C, Thunder Power 5300 65C, and MaxAmps 5250 and 6500 packs. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we've tested that we KNOW work. OUR MINIMUM BATTERY RATING FOR ALL 1/10^th AND 1/8^th APPLICATIONS IS 5000mah AND 30C CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.

4.   I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.
Make sure the green LED is showing when you give forward throttle. If it is, then just swap any two of the ESC to motor wires to reverse the rotation direction of the motor. You may also reverse the direction of the motor using the Castle Link software. If the ESC shows the red LED with forward throttle, you will need to reverse your throttle channel on your transmitter (via a micro switch, or within the programming of the radio) and recalibrate.
 

5.   My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.
Make sure the ESC is plugged into channel 2/throttle on the receiver, and that it's plugged in with the correct orientation. Double check your solder connections on the battery plug. Generally if you have no steering with everything plugged in correctly, then your receiver is either not getting power or not getting a signal from your transmitter.
 

6.   My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).
Try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually towards the throttle side is best). If your transmitter has a 50/50 and 70/30 setting for the throttle, set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.

7.   My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.
Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and reverse endpoints (called EPA, ATV, or Travel on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Spektrum transmitter and have an “A” and “B” slider switch near your thumb, adjust the throttle dual rate slider out to the maximum value as well. If you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position.

8.   I’m setting up a new car. How do I know which speed controller/motor to buy?
That’s what our expert technical support staff is for. Give them a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you in deciding on a product.

9.   Why does the fan on my Sidewinder 8^th run when I turn it on and then stop when the ESC arms?
The fan turns on when power is applied to the speed controller, and shuts off after the speed controller arms. From there it is thermally controlled and it will turn on if the speed controller temperature reaches 140°F, and shuts down after the temperature drops below that level.

10. Is my Sidewinder 8th speed controller waterproof?
Yes! Although the Sidewinder 8th and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
The fan must also be removed when exposed to wet conditions as it is not waterproof.

11. What is the motor turn count limit on my Sidewinder 8th ESC?
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.

12. My fan has stopped working on my Sidewinder 8th. What can I do?
A replacement fan for the Sidewinder 8th can be found here.

13. What brushless motors can I use my Sidewinder 8th with?
You can use the Sidewinder 8th in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1415-2400, 1512-2650, 1515-2200, 1512-1800, 1518-1800, 1520-1600, and 1717-1500. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.

14. I broke my Sidewinder 8th, and it was my fault. Am I stuck with a dead controller?
No, all Castle speed controllers have a core value. You can visit our Repair Center for details on how to send in your ESC for non-warranty replacement. Or you can contact our repair department regarding details. 913-390-6939, or send them a message.

15. When I turn my steering servo my receiver LED flashes, and the speed controller cuts out. Why?
The steering servo you are using is drawing more amperage than the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) on the speed controller is capable of handling. You can try using a capacitor in the receiver (Spektrum part SPM1600) in the battery slot of the receiver to prevent this drop out. The other option would be to disable the onboard BEC on the controller, and use a separate BEC like our CC BEC. To disable your onboard BEC carefully lift the tab on your receiver wire and pull the red wire out. Be sure to put heatshrink over the connector so it does not short out on anything. You may also put a short 3” servo extension between the ESC and receiver and remove the red wire from it rather than removing the wire from the ESC.

16. When I plug in my Sidewinder 8th into my Castle Link it doesn’t connect. What’s up?
First, make sure that on your Castle Link screen in the lower left hand corner you have a green USB connection status. If you do, the next step is to plug the ESC into the Castle Link. On the Castle Link circuit board just behind the three pins there are marks for positive (+), negative (-), and signal (Ω). The orange signal wire goes where the Ω pin is, the red goes where the “+” is, and the brown wire goes where the “-“ is. If you have disabled the red (+) wire going to the receiver you will need to plug in a battery pack to power the ESC. Anything above 2s LiPo will do. Plug the ESC in first, then the battery pack. The ESC should then connect. It will not work in the other order (battery first, then ESC to computer) so be sure to connect in the proper order.

17. When I plug in my Castle Link I do not get a green USB connection status, thus making it impossible for me to connect my Sidewinder 8th to my computer. How do I fix this?
Please refer to the Castle Link FAQ section on loading the driver software onto your computer. This will solve your USB connection status issue, and get you connected to the computer.

18. I’m getting an error whenever I try to update settings or update the firmware on my speed controller. What is wrong?
There may be an issue with the processor on the speed controller. Try un-installing the Castle Link firmware on your computer or another computer, try downgrading to a different version of firmware, try unplugging the Castle Link chip from the end of the USB cable and plugging it back in, and see if any of these resolve the issue for you. If you are still having issues please contact Castle Creations tech support at 913-390-6939 or send them a message.
 

19. What Auto-LiPo Volts/cell cutoff should I be using with my Sidewinder 8th?
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
 

20. Considering buying a system? Have one and are considering dropping it in a vehicle, but don’t know whether it will work with your vehicle?
Please contact Castle Creations tech support at 913-390-6939 or send them a message and they will be happy to assist you in finding the appropriate product for your vehicle.

21. Can I change the BEC output voltage on my Sidewinder 8th?
No, it is set to 5.5 volts and cannot be adjusted.

22. My speed controller beeps approximately every 15-20 seconds. What is that?
That is a feature we added called the “Power On Warning Beep”. It lets you know that your battery pack is still plugged in whenever the speed controller is seeing zero throttle or no throttle from the transmitter at all. This is a safety feature implemented due to the advent of LiPo technology. You can disable it if you would like using the Castle Link software, but it is recommended that it be kept enabled.

23. Is there a special color sequence I should plug the motor wires into the speed controller?
There is no polarity with a sensorless brushless motor (all Castle motors). This means the color coding does not matter at all. Simply plug the wires into the speed controller. If it runs the motor the wrong direction simply swap any two wires between the motor and ESC or plug the ESC into your Castle Link and reverse the rotation of the motor using the software.

24. What is the maximum voltage for the Sidewinder 8^th ESC?
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.

25. Why does my ESC not beep and show a solid red when trying to calibrate with a Spektrum SR6100AT receiver?

We have found that Spektrum has added a safety feature that interferes with our normal calibration and manual programming process. Our ESCs require you to power up the ESC at full throttle; the Spektrum SR6100AT receiver will not boot up properly until the throttle trigger is at neutral.
The solution we have found is to power up the ESC at neutral, wait for the receiver LED to turn solid amber, then apply full throttle; this allows the receiver to boot up properly.
WARNING: REMOVE Pinion gear or disengage motor from spur gear! You must apply full throttle BEFORE the ESC arms (double chime after LiPo cell count), but AFTER the receiver boots up and goes solid yellow. If the ESC arms and then you apply throttle the motor will run! We have found that waiting until the Auto LiPo feature counts the 3rd cell the receiver is operational and full throttle can be applied.